A mini PC with a USB IR receiver and whatever old remote you have to spare. It takes a bit of setup to map the remote with something like LIRC, but it works great once that’s done.
A mini PC with a USB IR receiver and whatever old remote you have to spare. It takes a bit of setup to map the remote with something like LIRC, but it works great once that’s done.
I’ve seen SSDs hit 100TB, but those are $40k+. And more “reasonable” options like 64TB for $10k or so.
HDDs just reached 30TB, but I don’t think those are widely available yet. 24TB is the biggest you can expect to see for sale.
Usenet is a lot faster than torrents, you don’t need a VPN, and it’s more reliable than anything but great private trackers.
You can get a USB IR receiver and use software like LIRC to map the inputs of basically any remote you have. Setting it up takes a little effort, but it works great when it’s done.
I would sell a few of them to shore up the budget, then use those funds to build a NAS box. You can buy everything other than drives for a few hundred, less if you have spare parts sitting around.
Exactly. Doesn’t matter if they’re wired or wifi, or where they are, as long as they’re on the same network you’re fine.
If you’re only trying to use Jellyfin at home, you don’t need any reverse proxy or domain. All you need is for both devices to be on the same network, and for the Raspberry Pi to have a fixed internal IP address (through your router settings).
On the Shield, you just give the Jellyfin app that IP address and port number (10.0.0.X:8096) to connect and you’re good to go.
For a NAS, you’re usually concerned with capacity first. And you can’t buy a 20TB m2.
They’re referencing the TRaSH Guides, a great resource for setup and basic tuning of an *arr stack. It’s where a lot of people get started.
I’ve used LIRC in the past. Takes a bit of setup, but it works well once you get it going.
Until then, a Raspberry Pi or SFF PC will do the job just fine. They even work with remotes if you get an IR receiver for them.
You got a remux, which is uncompressed. You can turn those off in Radarr to avoid those surprises.
If you want to fine-tune your file sizes (and quality) further, you can set up custom formats and quality profiles. The Trash Guides explain it well, the “HD Blu-ray + Web” profile on that page is a solid starting point. It’ll usually grab 6-12GB movies, but you can tweak it if you want them smaller.
These Win10 EoLs are going to flood eBay at dirt cheap prices, and they make great server/project boxes. They’re going to be new toys for the hobbyist crowd, not primary machines.
In general yes, but that doesn’t apply here. Vapes all use rechargeable lithium batteries, even the disposables without a charging port. Other battery chemistries at that size don’t put out enough power.
They’re also surprisingly easy to upgrade for their size. Swapped RAM, CPU, and hard drive in about 15 minutes total on one of mine.
“We would make less money, and that’s worse than more money.”
I’ve been happy with DuckDNS. Free, simple, and reliable.
If it was me, I’d just go without parity temporarily and grab another drive for that when I could. A new system should be safe enough for a while, just not forever.
It’s just Chromium with a layer of Microsoft on top. It’ll have the same extension issues from Manifest v3 that mainline Chrome does.
It’s also free in the Bitwarden app if you self-host with Vaultwarden. It’s only a paid feature if you’re using their hosting, and seemingly only so they can dangle it as a “premium” benefit.